What I Do, Step-By-Step

Mar 1
6 min read

Real detailing is a process. It’s careful. It’s methodical. And it’s done in a specific order so you don’t undo your own work halfway through.

This post breaks down exactly what I do step-by-step, so you know what’s happening to your car (and why it comes out looking and feeling so much better).

Step 1: Quick walk-around + reality check

Before I touch anything, I do a fast inspection of the vehicle.

I’m looking for:

heavy dirt build-up (especially in badges, trims, door jambs)
bug splatter / tar
swirl marks and paint oxidation
interior stains, pet hair, sand, and smells
problem areas like cupholders, seat creases, and carpet edges

This isn’t me being picky — this is how I choose the safest and most effective approach for your specific car.

Exterior: The Step-By-Step Wash Process

Whether you choose a Basic Exterior Wash, Standard Exterior Wash, Premium Exterior Wash, or a full Mud Basher Restoration, the core wash method is built around one goal:

Clean it properly without scratching the paint.

Step 2: Wheels and tyres first (always)

Wheels are usually the filthiest part of the car. If you wash the paint first, you risk splashing brake dust and grime back onto a clean panel.

So I start here:

clean tyres, wheel faces, barrels where possible
flush out grime from tight areas
rinse thoroughly

(This step is a big difference between a “wash” and a detail. Wheels can make a clean car look dirty fast.)

Step 3: Pre-rinse to knock off the heavy stuff

Before I touch your paint, I rinse the car down to remove loose dirt. This reduces the chance of rubbing grit into the clear coat during the contact wash.

Step 4: Foam + soften the grime

Foam isn’t just for show — it helps lift and soften dirt so it comes off safer and easier.

Step 5: Contact wash (safe method)

Now I do the hands-on wash:

clean from top to bottom (cleanest areas first)
extra attention to lower panels (they hold the worst grime)
rinse regularly to avoid dragging dirt around

Step 6: Decontamination (when needed / higher tiers)

On Standard/Premium washes, Mud Basher restorations, and especially full details, I’ll do paint decontamination when required. That can include:

chemical treatment for bonded contaminants
clay bar treatment to remove what washing can’t

This is what makes paint feel smooth again instead of rough and gritty.

Step 7: Drying properly (no dirty chamois work here)

Drying is where people wreck paint the most.

I dry carefully with proper microfibre drying towels, making sure the car is dried cleanly and safely — especially around badges, mirrors, trims, and door handles.

Step 8: Protection + finishing touches (depends on package)

This is where the shine and “easy to clean” part comes from.

Depending on the service, I’ll finish with things like:

wax / sealant protection
tyre dressing for a deep, clean look
glass cleaned to a streak-free finish
final wipe-down and touch-ups

For off-road vehicles, Mud Basher Restoration goes harder here — getting caked-on mud out of the places it loves to hide.

Interior: The Step-By-Step Cabin Process

Interior work is where you feel the result every single day. The difference isn’t just “looks better” — it’s the cabin feels fresh again.

Your interior services are:

Basic Interior Wash
Standard Interior Wash
Interior Restoration (the big one)

Step 9: Clear out rubbish + loose items

Quick reset first — rubbish out, personal items moved carefully, and the cabin gets opened up so I can actually reach everything.

Step 10: Thorough vacuum (including the annoying areas)

Vacuuming isn’t just carpets. I hit:

seats and seat rails
under seats (the graveyard of coins and chips)
carpet edges and corners
boot area if included

If you’ve got pet hair or sand, that becomes its own focused job (and yep — I offer Pet Hair Removal and Sand Removal as dedicated add-ons because they take time to do properly).

Step 11: Detail brushes + cracks and crevices

This is where a “quick clean” stops and detailing starts:

vents, seams, buttons, cupholders
door trims, handles, tight creases
all the areas that collect grime over months

Step 12: Wipe-down and interior reset

A proper wipe-down isn’t just making things “look shiny.” It’s about lifting grime and leaving a clean, natural finish.

This step hits:

dash and console
door cards
plastics and touch points
screens (carefully)

Step 13: Deep clean fabrics / carpets (Standard + Restoration level)

If your interior needs more than a refresh, this is where it levels up:

targeted Carpet Cleaning
fabric shampoo/extraction where needed
stain treatment

And if you’ve got child seats: I also do Child Seat Cleaning & Sanitising (because those things can get nasty fast).

Step 14: Leather care (if applicable)

Leather needs the right approach — too harsh and it dries out, too oily and it becomes a dirt magnet.

So it’s:

clean properly
wipe down
and if you want the long-term protection, I offer Leather Protection Coating (priced per seat)

Step 15: Headliner (optional / depends on vehicle)

You mentioned the “headliner - ???” idea — and that’s honestly a good add-on for Standard Interior and Full Detail / Premium Detail… but headliners are delicate.

If it’s safe for your material, I can do a gentle spot clean (not a soak job) to remove marks without damaging the glue underneath.

Step 16: Smell and bacteria control (optional add-ons)

If the car smells “off,” it’s usually trapped in fabric, carpets, and airflow areas.

That’s where add-ons come in:

Odour Treatment (targeted neutralisation)
deeper fabric cleaning
full interior reset approach

Full Packages: How an “Inside + Outside” Detail Works

If you book a combined service, you’re looking at:

Basic Detail (“Inside & Out, Done Right”)
Full Detail
Premium Detail
Restoration Detail (complete revival)

The step-by-step is basically:

wheels/tyres
exterior wash + dry
decon if needed
interior clean (vacuum + detail + wipe-down)
deeper interior services if required (shampoo/extraction/leather care)
protection + finishing touches

Premium and Restoration levels go further into:

deeper decontamination
more correction work
longer-lasting protection options
and the kind of detail that makes you look back at your car after you park it

Paint Correction: The Gloss Recovery Stages

Paint correction is for people who want that clean, glossy, reflective finish — not just “washed.”

I offer:

Stage 1 Paint Correction – restore gloss, reduce light defects
Stage 2 Paint Correction – deeper correction for heavier swirls and marks
Stage 3 Paint Correction – the “as close as it gets” correction before coatings

Step-by-step, paint correction generally goes:

wash + decontaminate
inspect paint under proper lighting
machine polish using the appropriate stage approach
refine and finish down for clarity
prep the surface for protection or ceramic coating

Ceramic Coatings: Long-Term Protection Done Properly

Ceramic isn’t magic — it’s chemistry + prep.

If the paint isn’t prepped correctly, a coating won’t bond properly and it won’t last how it should.

I work with:

Gyeon MOHS Evo
Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light (CSL)

The ceramic process typically looks like:

wash + full decontamination
paint correction (at least a prep polish, often more)
panel wipe / surface prep
coating application (carefully, panel by panel)
final inspection and finishing

And if your coating has expired or needs refreshing later, I also offer ceramic re-application options.

Add-On Services (When You Want to Level It Up)

Sometimes your car doesn’t need a whole new package — it just needs one specific fix.

That’s why I offer add-ons like:

Engine Bay Cleaning
Interior Wipe Down (quick refresh)
Wheel Restoration/Polishing
Chrome Restoration/Polishing
Carpet Cleaning
Headlight Restoration
Trim Restoration
Pet Hair Removal
Sand Removal
Child Seat Cleaning/Sanitising
Odour Treatment
Leather Protection Coating
Fabric Protection Coating
Convertible Top Cleaning & Protection
Paint Decontamination
Glass Polishing + Rain Repellent Treatment
Undercarriage Wash
Badge & Emblem Polishing
Paint Touch-Up Repair
Car Health Scan (OBD-II diagnostic scan)

The whole point of my process

I’m not here to slap a shine on your car for 10 minutes and call it done.

I do it properly — in the right order — using methods that:

clean deeper
last longer
and reduce the risk of scratching and damage

If you’ve ever wondered what separates a basic wash from a real detail… now you know.